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A Simple Soap for Beginners
I've posted this recipe before, and it is really simple, simple enough for a beginner, without being a melt-n-pour glycerine "soap", but I still get questions about making soap and how to start MOOing soap.
This recipe makes what is called a re-batched soap, meaning a soap made from another soap made using the cold or hot process, with added ingredients.
The base for this recipe is Lux flakes (for my overseas readers Lux is a brand of pure soap flakes; if you can't get Lux flakes in your country use your local brand of PURE soap flakes - if they're not in the laundry aisle, don't use them, they won't be pure flakes or suitable for this recipe).
Why is this soap recipe so easy? Simply because it doesn't use caustic soda (lye) so there is no precise measuring or safety gear needed.
This recipe makes what is called a re-batched soap, meaning a soap made from another soap made using the cold or hot process, with added ingredients.
The base for this recipe is Lux flakes (for my overseas readers Lux is a brand of pure soap flakes; if you can't get Lux flakes in your country use your local brand of PURE soap flakes - if they're not in the laundry aisle, don't use them, they won't be pure flakes or suitable for this recipe).
Why is this soap recipe so easy? Simply because it doesn't use caustic soda (lye) so there is no precise measuring or safety gear needed.
Ingredients:
4 cups Lux flakes (see my note above)
1 cup milk
1/2 cup powdered milk
Pure essential oil for fragrance or soap safe fragrance oil (optional)
4 cups Lux flakes (see my note above)
1 cup milk
1/2 cup powdered milk
Pure essential oil for fragrance or soap safe fragrance oil (optional)
Step 1. Spray your soap moulds with cooking spray, this stops the soap from sticking.
Step 2. Add the Lux flakes to an old stockpot or large saucepan.
Step 2. Add the Lux flakes to an old stockpot or large saucepan.
Step 3. Add 1/2 cup milk and stir over a low heat. Continue stirring and adding milk until all the soap flakes have dissolved. Don't be tempted to add more milk, it really isn't necessary. Just keep stirring over a low heat.
Scrape down the sides of the pot often and stir the scrapings into the mixture.
If you stop stirring the soap may burn (it will be OK to use, just not pretty and may have dark flecks through it - if this happens use it for cleaning), so if you get tired take the pot off the heat for a moment. This process takes about 15 minutes cooking time all up.
Scrape down the sides of the pot often and stir the scrapings into the mixture.
If you stop stirring the soap may burn (it will be OK to use, just not pretty and may have dark flecks through it - if this happens use it for cleaning), so if you get tired take the pot off the heat for a moment. This process takes about 15 minutes cooking time all up.
Step 4. Keep stirring until the soap reaches the consistency of mashed potato, quite thick and lumpy. This is when you add the milk powder and stir. The milk powder will make the mixture creamy and smooth. It should be a pourable consistency.
Step 5. If you are using essential oils, add them now. Depending on how strong you want the scent to be, use between two and four teaspoons of pure essential oil. Stir well to mix the essential oil through the mixture.
I don't add essential oil, I like the scent of the Lux flakes and essential oils fade over time (and quite quickly too, within about three months) and can end up smelling sour.
Step 6. Pour into your moulds, smooth the tops and leave for 24 hours to set. I like to leave the top of the moulds as smooth as I can, but don't worry if they're a little lumpy looking - you can fix it once the soap has hardened. Using a 1/4 cup measuring cup makes pouring into the moulds easier.
If the mixture is starting to harden in the pot, put it back over a very low heat to melt again and stir until melted. Remember to scrape down the sides of the pot and your spoon to get it all melted.
This soap does set quite quickly on the outside, but the inside will be soft for quite a while. Don't be tempted to remove them from the moulds any earlier than 12 hours after pouring, and if you are, be careful not to squeeze the soap too hard or it will break.
I don't add essential oil, I like the scent of the Lux flakes and essential oils fade over time (and quite quickly too, within about three months) and can end up smelling sour.
Step 6. Pour into your moulds, smooth the tops and leave for 24 hours to set. I like to leave the top of the moulds as smooth as I can, but don't worry if they're a little lumpy looking - you can fix it once the soap has hardened. Using a 1/4 cup measuring cup makes pouring into the moulds easier.
If the mixture is starting to harden in the pot, put it back over a very low heat to melt again and stir until melted. Remember to scrape down the sides of the pot and your spoon to get it all melted.
This soap does set quite quickly on the outside, but the inside will be soft for quite a while. Don't be tempted to remove them from the moulds any earlier than 12 hours after pouring, and if you are, be careful not to squeeze the soap too hard or it will break.
Step 7. After 24 hours, remove from the moulds and place soap on a cake rack to cure. Trim the top of the soap so it is smooth. I use a very sharp carving knife for this, then I add the shavings to the washing powder tin.
Step 8. Cure for at least a week, preferably four weeks, before using. The longer the soap cures, the harder the cakes will be and the better they will be to use - they won't go gluggy as quickly if they have been left for a few weeks to cure and harden.
Notes:
I use silicone cake moulds as they are relatively cheap and available from $2 shops and the different shapes make pretty soaps. I used individual heart cupcake moulds and three sea shell shaped moulds to make this batch; they all came from the op shop. You can use empty juice or milk cartons (not plastic bottles, you'd need to cut the soap out of those), or Pringles tubes or cake tins (line with plastic wrap so you can lift the soap out). You don't need to invest in a wooden soap mould, they are expensive and unless you are going to make soap regularly the other options are just as handy.
Normally you'd keep this pot just for soap making, and not use it for cooking food in once it's been used to make soap. That's because making soap from scratch involved caustic soda and it's just not worth risking being burnt or getting sick from any residue in the pot. As this is a repurposed soap, the lye/caustic soda has already reached saponification and cured.
Milk - you can use either cows or goats milk in this recipe.
Milk powder - full cream gives the best result. Skim can be used in a pinch but the soap won't be as smooth and creamy and won't have a rich feel to the lather.
This soap doesn't create a huge lather, but rather a nice, silky froth when you use it.
I don't add fragrance to my soaps, and this one especially doesn't really need a scent as the Lux flakes already smell lovely. If you do want to add scent, only use pure essential oils if you are going to be using this soap for hands, hair etc. Pure Eos don't last long, but fragrance oils (which are usually a synthetic scent in an oil base) will last. If you're going to use fragrance oils, make sure get one which is made just for soap making so it won't cause any irritations.
I use silicone cake moulds as they are relatively cheap and available from $2 shops and the different shapes make pretty soaps. I used individual heart cupcake moulds and three sea shell shaped moulds to make this batch; they all came from the op shop. You can use empty juice or milk cartons (not plastic bottles, you'd need to cut the soap out of those), or Pringles tubes or cake tins (line with plastic wrap so you can lift the soap out). You don't need to invest in a wooden soap mould, they are expensive and unless you are going to make soap regularly the other options are just as handy.
Normally you'd keep this pot just for soap making, and not use it for cooking food in once it's been used to make soap. That's because making soap from scratch involved caustic soda and it's just not worth risking being burnt or getting sick from any residue in the pot. As this is a repurposed soap, the lye/caustic soda has already reached saponification and cured.
Milk - you can use either cows or goats milk in this recipe.
Milk powder - full cream gives the best result. Skim can be used in a pinch but the soap won't be as smooth and creamy and won't have a rich feel to the lather.
This soap doesn't create a huge lather, but rather a nice, silky froth when you use it.
I don't add fragrance to my soaps, and this one especially doesn't really need a scent as the Lux flakes already smell lovely. If you do want to add scent, only use pure essential oils if you are going to be using this soap for hands, hair etc. Pure Eos don't last long, but fragrance oils (which are usually a synthetic scent in an oil base) will last. If you're going to use fragrance oils, make sure get one which is made just for soap making so it won't cause any irritations.
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